My friend asked me a question and because I somewhat understand how difficult it is, I decided I’ll dedicate a post specifically for her. She asked me “What kind of makeup and skincare would suit dark skinned people?” Let’s get into it shall we?
Basically, from my understanding and studies of skin, those from African descent, whether it be pure African skin, or African American, African British; whatever it may be, have similar skin types to Asian skin. Therefore, Asian skincare will work SO MUCH better for them than Western skincare would. As per usual, get your skin type analyzed to see what precautions you need to take into consideration when finding the right products for you.
If you have acne prone skin, then definitely include a skincare routine that revolves around the ingredient salicylic acid since it works better than benzoyl peroxide would. I’ve noticed that benzoyl peroxide is a common ingredient found in many Western brand acne products, which is something you all should steer clear from. Benzoyl peroxide gives you temporary relief from acne and will only help you for so long before your skin rejects the chemical. In laymans terms, you will still have acne at the end of the day. Reason being, is the particle for benzoyl peroxide is too large to deep cleanse your pores from the sebum and bacteria, so there will be residue left inside your pores, thus causing more breakouts in the long run.
Salicylic acid is so much smaller in particle size, and can get into the pores a lot easier to literally flush out all the nasties from your skin. It can also kill off the bacteria better, which is the main trigger for pimples and whiteheads. Not only that, but salicylic acid is naturally found in citrus fruits, which, studies have shown, can alleviate the signs of acne and help aid in relief from stressed and dull looking skin. The cleanser I’m currently using is the Etude House AC Foam Cleanser since my previous cleanser by Missha has discontinued. Missha used to have an AC gel formulated cleanser for their AC range, but it seems their AC range has been taken off the market and they are now implementing AC control through their pore line. I don’t know, I’m not really feeling it the way I did with their AC range. Missha, if you’re reading this (which I highly doubt you are, please bring the green AC range back.)
If you have oily skin, then it’s quite likely your skin is lacking in moisture and needing to produce more oil in order to restore somewhat of a balance. This is very common in many people I’ve encountered working in Cosmehut. With basic skin analysis, I’ve noticed that people are only oily because they are too dry and their skin is readjusting to balance by producing more sebum. It’s very rare for me to actually find someone who has purely oily skin, like myself during the summer time. To combat this issue, I’ve suggested a few things to some of my customers who are POC and asked them to come back and tell me how they went with what I suggested them to try.
More than likely, the key ingredient which they found was very effective in readjusting the balance was hyaluronic acid (ヒヤルロン酸); an ingredient found in so many Japanese products. Basically, anything from Japan that has うるおい (潤い), みずみずし， or しっとり (知っとり) in the label or description will likely include hyaluronic acid as it’s key ingredient for hydration purposes. Hyaluronic acid penetrates deep into the lower layers of the skin to provide moisturizing care deep down for hydration from within. The more water content your skin contains, and the stronger the water retention your skin can hold, the less likely you will be oily.
Another ingredient that many POC have enjoyed in their skin regime is snail filtrate to not only care for their acne, but to balance the moisture and sebum levels in the skin. I swear by snail products to care for so many different skin concerns; actually, for almost everyone’s skin concerns. I’m using it myself, and I can see how much nicer my skin has become with using the snail on my face. It helps to alleviate dryness by nourishing the skin and balancing the skin to recreate normal skin type. It can also aid in evening the skin complexion, soften and smoothen skin, help fight bacteria, protect the skin, repair, reduce the signs of aging and reduce hyper pigmentation marks. More than likely, I’ll suggest snail products to everyone because I’ve seen for myself, how effective it is, not only for Asians, but Westerners, POC and anybody in between.
For dry skin types (as in, even the sebum levels can’t create balance)I have suggested my clients to try the brand History of Whoo and Sulwhasoo, with it’s high content of ginseng and floral extracts. Ginseng has been proven to help in reducing the signs of aging provided you use the products at an earlier age and progress for more stronger doses by changing the range in which you use. For starters, I have targeted clients with the essential range from Sulwhasoo and the Gojinhyang range from Whoo. They add so much hydration to the skin with it’s content of ginseng and peony flower and, just like the snail filtrate, it dives deep into the underlying skin layers to penetrate the skin with rich hydration. From there, I’ve moved them off Sulwhasoo and kept them on History of Whip simply because the products from Whoo are more rich and can add more hydration with it’s other ranges that care for dry and fatigued skin. Some of my Korean friends who have access to peony flowers have even told me that they soak the petal in warm water for a day, and use the concoction as a rinse to wash away their cleansers for added hydration benefits. Green tea leaves, cherry blossoms and chamomile flowers have similar benefits too, so keep that into consideration.
The biggest concern I’ve noticed is POC wanting to lighten their skin. Let me tell you from experience; unless you’re incredibly persistent and you address your main skin type, there is no way in hell you’re going to lighten your skin any time soon. Not only that, you can’t expect to go from an NC45 to NC15 with a snap of your fingers. It’s virtually impossible unless you undergo drastic skin malfunctions to get there. Don’t do it, if you truly care for your skin. Instead, address the reason why you’re the skin tone you’re at now.
Ever heard of melanin? It’s the main reason why people are lighter or darker than others. People have different skin, and melanin production determines the shade of skin we naturally sit at. By hindering the production of melanin in our skin, we can ultimately slow the process of darkening and start to improve skin complexion over time. Again, let me remind you, unless you’re going to cause drastic damage to your skin through unspeakable operations, you’re not going to become pale from dark skin. I’ve lightened over time, and it’s thanks to daily use of sunscreen and POLA Whitissimo.
The range consists of basic skincare, which includes a cleanser, mask, toner, lotion and cream. From there, they’ve expanded to include the White Shot range, which consists of serums and oral products to penetrate deep into your body and skin, to become lighter over time. How effective is it? Let’s say that we have more than 5 customers already pre-ordering many of the Whitissimo and White Shot range upon their first time purchase of the products, simply because their skin has changed from using POLA. Our best selling POLA products, the Deep Foam Clear (mask) and the White Shot Tablet 3 months sell out in a matter of hours from receiving our biweekly shipments in store. Not only that, but we also have customer lodging orders for these in huge quantities, since it’s so rare for us to even have any on our shelves.
POLA Whitissimo works by targeting our skin’s melanin production to hinder the process of natural skin darkening caused by sun exposure. Not only that, it creates a barrier for your skin to protect against UV rays causing skin darkening and provides your skin with the utmost hydration to create supple, well hydrated skin. I’d say it’s even more rich than Sulwhasoo is as well. Their day moisturizer, which is so milky, has just about the same nourishment care as Whoo’s night cream, so imagine the hydration care the Whitissimo cream offers. The oral tablets have been drug and dermatologist tested by the Japanese drug association, and have been certified for use amongst people. Saying that, it won’t cause damage to your body or your skin, and helps improve skin clarity over time. The only things you should look for are dizziness, fatigue or stomach issues. If symptoms do persist whilst taking the tablets, then cease to consume them immediately, because you may be allergic to the product.
Alternatively, I’ve tried many whitening products to see which is most effective, and hands down, Lei Lani comes on top of it all. The Wear White finisher is great for one shade lighter skin throughout the day, and with persistent usage, it helps to keep skin fairer for longer and absorbs fairly well into the skin. Second place does go to POLA Whitissimo for effective long term skin lightening, and third place for me has to be History of Whoo. The entire range of Whoo has improved skin clarity in all clients and have toned their skin shade up by one or two shades almost immediately. Long term usage will keep skin fairer and make it as light as possible. The most effective whitening from History of Whoo would be their white range, specifically targeting whitening the skin with the added bonus of hydration.
Any other skin concerns you want me to address for POC? Please let me know down below. For the person who requested this question, I do hope this was informative enough for you, and answered your question with what I found effective in not only myself, but for the clientele I serve at work. As for your makeup question, that will be in another post, so please stay tuned. Remember to like and subscribe to my blog, comment below for Q&A every weekend, and hit me up through my SNS sites. Up until the next blog post~
love anthony ♡